Friday, October 20, 2006

Immigration Regulations.

1 APPLYING FOR A NON-IMMIGRANT VISA.

Normally, a visa can be obtained from the Thai Embassy or Consulate in your country that is valid for 90 days. If you wish to stay for one year, there are two ways that can be done:

1. An alien submits an application for a non-immigrant visa at a Thai Embassy or Consulate which will be sent to the Immigration Bureau in Thailand.
2. A company in Thailand who wishes to employ an alien submits an application to the Immigration Bureau, Section 3, Sub-division 1, Immigration Division, Old Building, 3rd Floor, Room 303, Tel. 287-4948 1 or 287-3101-10 Ext. 2237

2 APPLYING FOR A RE-ENTRY PERMIT.

In the case where an alien who holds any kind of visas for stay in the Kingdom wishes to travel abroad before his or her visa expires, the alien must apply for a re- entry permit. A re-entry permit allows you to re-enter the Kingdom and use the time remaining on your visa. If a re-entry permit is not applied for, the visa will automatically be cancelled although it has not expired.

Place to contact:

For the Bangkok/Central Areas:
Section 3, Sub-division 1, Immigration Division 1, 1 st Floor, Window No. 6, Old Building, Tel. 287-3101 -10 Ext. 2274
For The Provincial Area:
Contact day Immigration check-point through-out the country.

Requirements:

1. Passport or substitute travel document
2. One 4x6 cm. Photo
3. Application Form T.M. 8
4. 500 Bath fee per application. A re-entry permit may be obtained several times.

3 APPLYING FOR PERMANENT RESIDENCE.

Periodically, the Immigration Bureau receives applications for permanent residence. Public announcements will be made at such times. Foreigners with non- immigrant visas who have resided in Thailand continuously for three years (on 1-year visa extensions), may apply for permanent residency.

Place to contact:

For more detailed information, pamphlets and applications forms, please contact Section 1, Sub-division 1, Immigration Division 1. Room 301, 3rd Floor,Old Building, tel . 287-3117 or 287-3101-10 Ext. 2234-5.

4 APPLYING FOR ENDORSEMENT FOR RE-ENTRY AND NON-QUOTA IMMIGRANT VISA.

There are two requirements for aliens with permanent resident visas who wish to travel abroad:

1. Submit his/her resident's book for endorsement before leaving, as well as:
2. Bring his/her passport to apply for a non-quota immigrant visa in order to reserve the right to have permanent residence in the country. After leaving, the applicant must return within a year of receiving the endorse- ment. If he/she did not receive an endorsement or return within that time period, the applicant will automatically forfeit their permanent residence visa. Within this one year time period, the applicant can enter and leave the country as many times as a non-quota immigrant visa permits.

Place to contact:

For the Central/Bangkok Area:
Section 2, Sub-division 1, Immigration Division 1, 1st Floor, Old Building, Tel. 287-3101-10 Ext. 2273

For Provincial Areas:
Contact any Immigration check-point throughout the country.

Requirements:
1. Resident's book
2. Alien identification card
3. Passport or substitute document
4. Work permit (if any)
5. Three 4x6 cm. Photos
6. Application Form, T.M. 13; for those of Chinese nationality other nationalities need 2 copies.
7. 1 copy of Application Form T.M. 22
8. 500 bath for endorsement fee, 500 bath for non-quota i per application. Subsequent applications can be made.
9. An alien must apply in person each time.

Procedures for Lost Passport.

A foreigner whose passport was either lost or stolen after ent dom must do the following:

* A report must be filed at the local police station in the ar passport was lost or stolen.
* Bring the police report to your embassy or consulate and a passport or substitute document. If there is no embassy Thailand, please contact the Passport Division of the Mini Affairs.
* Bring your new passport or substitute document to the I Bureau to have your visa division 4, Immigration Bureau, Floor, Old Building, Te1287-3911 or 287-3101-10 Ext. 22 the following:
- Passport or substitute document
- The report from a police station
- A document from the Embassy or consulate certifying the (if any).

Reporting of Alien's Residence.

The Immigration Bureau must be informed when a foreigner rents the property of a Thai citizen.

Place to contact :

In the Central/Bangkok Area :
Section 4 (Record & Statis Subdivision 4, Immigration Bureau, Room 311, 3 Id Floor, Old 287-3911 or 287-3101-10 Ext. 2244
For provincial areas :
The owner of the house must inform Immigration Office or if not available. the local police station

Reporting Procedures :
- Authorities must be informed within 24 hours of the alien's occupancy.
- The above procedures may be done by mail.
- After 90 days in the country, an alien must report his/her address to the Bureau. Reporting must be done every 90 days thereafter.

Fines for Over-Staying Visas.

According to Section 81 of "Immigration Act, B.E. 2522 (1979)", aliens who overstay their visas and voluntarily report this to the Immigration Bureau, will be fined 100 bath for each day the visa is overstayed but not more than a total o 20,000 Bath.

Where to pay fines:

In the Central/Bangkok Area :
Investigation Unit, Immigration Bureau, Room 416, 4th Floor, Old Building, Tel. 287-312 or 287-3101 Ext. 2204-9 or at the Bangkok International Airport Departure Section upon the alien's departure from the Kingdom.

For provincial areas:
All Immigration Checkpoints upon the alien's departure from the Kingdom.

Procedures for Passengers who did not Receive an Entry Stamp.

An alien who enters the Kingdom at recognized check-points but who did not receive a visa stamp, can apply for a visa as follows:

* If the point of entry was Bangkok International Airport: Please report to the officer on duty at Room 519, 5th Floor, Old Building, Immigration Bureau, Soi Suan Plu, Sathorn District, Bangkok. Tel. 287-3101-10 Ext. 2191
* If the entry point was a provincial checkpoint: Please report to the officer at Section 1 (Administration & Personnel), 9" Floor, New Building, Tel. 287-1913 or 287-3101-10 Ext. 2161-2. The officer on duty will make the necessary entries/corrections in your passport.

VAT Refund for Tourists.

Who can claim VAT refunds.

A VAT refund can be claimed by any non-Thai visitor who.......

* Has not been in Thailand for more than 180 days in a calendar year
* Is not a crew member of an airline
* Departs Thailand by air carrier from an international airport.

How to Claim a VAT refund.

1. VAT refund only applies to goods taken out of Thailand within 60 days from the date of purchase.
2. The goods must be purchased from stores displaying the "VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS" sign.
3. On any day, goods purchased at a participating store must not be less than baht 2,000 and the total amount of goods purchased, including VAT, must not be less than baht 5,000.
4. At each store ask the sales assistant to complete 2 VAT refund forms (P.P.10) and attach the original tax invoice to the forms.
5. Before departure, present your purchase to Customs and Revenue officers for inspection in order to obtain VAT refund at the departure lounge after check-in and Passport control.
6. In case the VAT refund exceeds baht 10,000, you can either present your claim to the Customs and Revenue officers at the VAT Refund Office of drop it in the box at the Refund Counter or mail it from your home back to the Revenue Department of Thailand.

How will to refund be paid ?

You can choose to receive your refund by

Refund Amount

not exceeding 10,000 baht exceeding 10,000 baht

Refund Method

cash in Thai bahtdaftcredit to credit card account draftcredit to credit card account

Note : you must specify the method of receiving the refund on your form (P.P.10)

The following fees apply to refund requests

* For Cash refund, a fee of 100 baht
* For draft refund, a fee of 100 baht plus draft issuing fee at the rate charged by banks and postage fees.
* For credit to credit card account refund, a fee of 100 baht plus money transfer fee at the rate charged by banks.

Important to Note

You cannot claim VAT refunds for the following goods :

* Prohibited items
* Firearms, explosives or any similar items
* Gem stones

Some hints

Allow yourself adequate time at the airport for the refund process. In case your request for refund by draft or credit card account receives no reply within an appropriate period of time, please contact at VAT Refund Office at Bangkok International Airport, Tel 535-6576-79 or the VAT Refund Center, Revenue Department, Phaholyothin Road, Bangkok 10400, Thailand, Tel. 272-9376-87, Fax. 272-9388

Further information can be obtained from the participating stores or at the Revenue Department.

Warning

The Purchases for which you are claiming VAT refunds are subject to inspection by Customs and Revenue officers before departure at the VAT Refund Office inside the departure lounge.

Thailand Health Guide.

Welcome to Thailand. Every year, more than 8 million tourists visit this country as one of their travel destinations. Many arrive with insufficient health advice which often results in bounts of illnesses that spoil a good part of their journey. The information provided in this page will help you come up with appropriate protection against somecommon illnesses and promote enjoyment of your happy stay in Thailand.
Malaria

Bangkok and most provinces in the central region as well as major tourist resorts such as Chiangmai, Phuket, Hua-Hin and Koh Samui have been free from malaria for decades. Now all cities in Thailand are malaria free. However, tourist destinations in rural neighbourhoods, especially those in the mountainous and border areas are still at certain risks.

Chloroquine and most other chemoprophylactic drugs have proved to be ineffective against falciparum malaria in Thailand. Tourists visiting these endemic areas are rather recommended to take general precautions against mosquito bite. After sunset, they should stay in screened quarters or mosquito nets, wear longsleeve shirts and pants, and may apply mosquito repellents. Those who develop fever within two weeks of entry to risk areas should seek prompt medical examination and treatment.

Japanese encephalitis.

This viral infection of the brain, is contracted through the bite of mosquitoes that prevail in rural agricultural areas. It is found in many Eastern and Southeastern Asian countries, primarily in the rural and suburban areas. Similar to malaria, the disease can be prevented by avoiding mosquito bite during the night time. Travellers who plan to spend their time exposing to rural environment in these regions for over several months are recommended to take Japanese encephalitis vaccination before entry.

Dengue fever and dengue hemorrhagic fever.

These diseases are endemic in Southeast Asia. They are caused by dengue virus from the bite of aedes mosquito that lives in the houses and their neighbourbood. This mosquito bites during the day time. Dengue infection in local people, mostly children, often results in fever with bleeding in the skin and other organs (dengue hemorrhagic fever) which is sometime fatal; but for travellers from non-endemic areas, the infection usually minifests as fever with rash in the skin, severe headache and muscle and pains (dengue fever), which is usually non-fatal.

Dengue infection is common in the rainy season (approximately May to September in Thailand) when aedes mosquito is abundant. Travellers visiting local households or their vicinity, especially in the rainy season, should be using mosquito repellent even in the day time. Ones who are ill with symptoms suspected of dengue infection should seek medical consultation to establish the cause of the illness.

Rabies.

Rabies can be found in many animals especially dogs and cats. Although Thailand has been working toward elimination of the disease and the situation has been much improved, travellers are recommended to take prevention if their travel itineraries allow possible exposure to animal bites. Those who plan walking sight-seeing in local communities should consider having pre-exposure rabies vaccination before starting off. Three intramuscular injections of cell-culture rabies vaccine are required. In case of exposure to animals without prior vaccination, the pose-exposure vaccination is usually effective if it is initiated without delay. However, for those who have had pre-exposure vaccination, if they are bitten, they should also seek prompt consultation with the physician for evaluation and consideration for booster vaccination.

Diarrhea.

Diarrhea is mostly caused by ingestion of food and drinks contaminated with bacteria or viruses. To prevent diarrhea, avoid uncooked food and drink only boiled of bottled or carbonated water. Food served at street vendors should be considered at risk. Fresh vegetables and fruits should be adequately washed with clean water. Fresh salad should be taken only from a salad bar or a restaurant of hygienic standard. Tap water in many Southeast Asian cities is claimed to be safe for drinking, but it is still advisable to stick to safety precautions.

Danger from diarrhea primarily is the result of the loss of water and electrolytes from the body. If you happen to have diarrhea during your travel, the most helpful remedy is drinking electrolyte solution to replace the loss. Therefore, it is always useful to keep some electrolyte solution packets in your first-aid kit. If your diarrhea gets worse or does not improve within 12-24 hours, consult the physicians for proper investigation and treatment.

Typhoid fever.

Typhoid fever has become uncommon among Thai people. However, travellers should not neglect taking prevention against this food and water borne disease. Precaution measures for diarrhea, as mentioned above, are effective for typhoid as well. It is also recommended that the travellers receive typhoid vaccination, in injectable or oral form, before start of the journey. However, those who need initiation or booster vaccination can find the service at most hospitals and clinics in Thailand.

Sexually transmitted diseases and HIV/AIDS.

Urethritis remains the most common treatable sexually transmitted disease (STD) among tourists to Asia. Gonorrhea from Southeast Asia is frequently multidrug resistant. While syphilis become less common, HIV/AIDS is spreading at worrisome speeds in most Asian countries, resulting mostly from unprotected sexual contacts.

Promiscuous sex anywhere can be dangerous. For travellers, local sex workers, either of explicite or concealed types, are potential sources of STDs and HIV/AIDS. All casual sex should be avoided or strictly protected with the use of condoms. Danger from intravenous drug use with sharing of needles and syringes cannot be overemphasized. However, blood transfusion at all medical centers in Thailand is considered safe as intensive screening of donated blood for HIV, hepatitis B and syphilis is implemented nationwide.

Viral hepatitis.

There are two major groups of viral hepatitis. Hepatitis spread by contaminated food and water, hepatitis A and E, are endemic in many parts of Asia. Most local people are immune to these types of hepatitis through natural infection, but travellers from better hygienic environments can be receptive to infection. Therefore, travellers are recommended to practice prevention measures against food and water borne diseases, as suggested for diarrhea. An alternative protection for hepatitis A is the immunization with hyperimmune serum or hepatitis A vaccine. Consult with the physician at an established medical service for the immunization.

Another group of hepatitis; hepatitis B, C and D; are transmitted through contaminated blood and sexual contacts, or passed from infected mothers to their babies at the time of birth; similar to the ways HIV/AIDS is transmitted. This group of hepatitis can be simultaneously and effectively avoided if precautions against HIV/AIDS are strictly taken. However, for those who require immunization, effective vaccine against hepatitis B is available at most medical services.

Thailand Shopping Guide.

Best to Buy

A wealth of shopping opportunities awaits the visitor, and bargains abound throughout our country in traditional handicrafts, textiles, gems, jewellery and antiques, as well as more contemporary items.

Clothing : We're one of the world's leading manufacturers of ready-to-wear clothing. Fashion boutiques are found in every shopping mall, while cheaper clothing such as T-shirts and jeans are available at bargain prices from street vendors. Custom tailoring is also very affordable and tailors can produce or copy most styles in just a few days.

Thai silk & craftSilk : Probably the most famous of all our kingdom's handicrafts, silk is available in a range of colours, patterns and plys, and is sold by the yard, or as ready-made clothing and souvenir items. A unique style of Thai silk is Mat Mee, a tie-dye silk traditional to the North-east. The best known outlet for Thai silk is undoubtedly Jim Thompson's shop at the top of Surawong Road in Bangkok.

Cotton & Batik : Our Thai cottons have become increasingly popular and are a good deal. Particularly notable are the hilltribe cottons woven by the tribal people of the North, typically displaying bold designs and often lavish embroidery. Equally distinctive are original batiks crafted at several studios in Bangkok.

Pewterware : Pewter is fashioned with great skill by Thai craftsmen, and the smooth, silky finish of this attractive alloy is enhanced by delicate relief decoration. Pewterware items include plates, boxes, vases and pocket flasks.

GemsGems : Bangkok is the coloured gemstone capital of the world. Rubies and sapphires are indigenous stones, but virtually all coloured gems, as well as diamonds, are available. Shoppers should exercise caution and buy from reputable dealers only.

Antiques : Thai, Chinese, Burmese and Khmer antiques are excellent buys. There is an export ban on certain pieces, particularly Buddha images. Other pieces may require an export license, but any reputable dealer will be able to advise on restrictions and any necessary documentation.

Ceramics : Both traditional and contemporary styles of pottery are available throughout our kingdom. Best known are the distinctive sea-green celadons from the Sukothai area, and the central provinces' colourful Benjarong (five color) porcelain, which are unique to our country.

Nielloware : Practiced in the South for hundreds of years, nielloware is the craft of decorating gold and silver objects with delicate etched designs filled with a metal ware. Nielloware trays, boxes, vases and other items are some of our best buys.

Lacquerware : A specialty of Chiang-Mai and the north, this craft involves coating split bamboo or wood with lacquer, then adding intricate hand-painted designs typically gold-on-black lacquer or yellow and green on a red brown background. Look out for lacquerware bowls, boxes, trays and other items for decoration or for souvenirs.

Thai Orchids : We're famous for our huge variety of orchids and their magnificent colours and durable beauty make them a popular purchase. Specially packaged flowers, complete with water supply, are easily transported and can be conveniently purchased at Bangkok International Airport.

Furniture : Rattan and rosewood furniture items are available in many designs and styles and can also be made to order. Shops in Bangkok and Chiang Mai have a wide selection and can arrange shipment overseas.

Hilltribe Crafts : The tribal groups who live in the hills of the north make a variety of beautifully embroidered textiles and silver jewellery. Chiang Mai is the centre for such goods.

Best to Buy - Gems

Gemopolis - Thailand's latest Tourist Attraction and Jewellery Shopping Paradise.

Gemopolis is Thailand's largest diamonds , gems and jewellery center. It is fully integrated one - stop service and only Free Trade Zone for diamond , gems and jewelry manufacturing and exporting center. Gemopolis was established by a group of leading Thai diamond and jewel businessmen in 1990. It has been promoted and put on the tourist map as one of Thailand's latest tourist attractions and gems & jewellery shopping paradise by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT).

Gemopolis is a mega gems city with beautiful , shady and well - maintained environment under the concept of jewels in the park. It occupies a land area of some 300 acres and is envisaged to include a manufacturing and exporting center of hundreds of jewel factories of various scales , an exhibition and trading center with a diamond bourse , a hotel and a shopping center , a museum and retail center and other related supporting business components. The center receives solid support from the Jewelry in Thailandgovernment agencies including the Board of Investment , the Industrial Estate of Thailand and the Customs Department. This beautiful gems city located at km. 12, Bangna - Trad highway (off King Kaew Road) , some 30 kms. east of Bangkok. It can be reached by personal car by taking the first state of Bangna - Daokanong express way.

The interesting programme for tourist at Gemopolis include :

- visiting the gigantic and beautiful environment diamond , gems and jewelry center which currently houses nearly 20 international and local factories including diamond polishing factory , gold & jewellery making factory , as well as gold refinery which mainly produce for export world - wide.

- factory tourVisitor will be shown the whole process of diamond polishing , gold & jewellery making , gold refinery in the state - of - the art modern factories which belong to international company such as USA , Australia , France , Germany , Japan , Hong Kong , Singapore and leading Thai company like Beauty Gems Group , Thien Po Jewellery and General Diamond - the only one Thai company which appointed De Beers' sight dealer , etc.

Moreover , tourist will also have a glimpse of how Thai diamond polishers and skillful craftsmen live and work , how their products of arts and crafts are produced.

- Jewelry in Thailandgems & jewellery shopping Since Gemopolis is the first and only Free Trade Zone for diamond , gems and jewelry in the kingdom , tourist can enjoy duty free privilege in purchasing gems & jewellery so they will save at least 10% VAT. Moreover , they can view and shop a variety of high quality standard of diamonds , gems and jewellery which mainly produced for export at factory - price. So tourist can ensure that price of jewellery at Gemopolis is more competitive and cheaper than jewellery selling at other shops in Bangkok. In addition , Gemopolis also issues certificate of guarantee and buy - back guarantee for tourist as well.

- a gems & jewellery exhibition The jewel pavilion will be the display of a collection of pure gold masterpieces crafted by Thai craftsmanship , a replica of the world's largest blue topaz namely "Siam Akara Manee" (Giant Gemstone of Siam) , the blue topaz weight 30,000 carat in rough form when it was discovered in Namibia. After polished , the stone has the distinction of having the largest number of facets - 950 with the symbolizing His Majesty being the Ninth King of the Chakri Dynasty , while 50 stands for the number of years which has passed since he accessed to the thorn , Jewel Award - Thailand's award wining jewellery creations , these jewellery pieces have previously obtained accolades in the prestigious Jewel Award Contest , a nationwide contest judging the aesthetic appeal and creation merit of about 50 concept in jewellery by Thai designer. The Jewel Award contest organized annually by Department of Export Promotion (DEP) and the Thai Gems & Jewellery Traders Association (TGJTA) to promote and encourage competition and self - improvement among Thai jewellery designers the demonstration of gemstone cutting by the only world's blind cutter.

* Gemopolis is open every day from 10.00 am. - 4.30 p.m.

* Factory tour programme is not available on Saturday and Sunday

* Admission fee : US$ 5

* For more information , please contact
Public Relation Department
I.G.S. Public Co.,Ltd.
Gemopolis Industrial Estate
47/31 Moo 4 Sukhapiban 2 Road ,
Prawes , Bangkok 10260
Tel. (662) 727 0022
Fax. (662) 727 0500

The Thai Gem and Jewel Traders Association (TGJTA)

Jewel Fest Club

The Thai Gem and Jewel Traders Association (TGJTA) in cooperation with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has established the Jewel Fest Club with the main aims to create an image and upgrade Thailand as a marketplace of quality gems at inexpensive prices, as well as to be a supporting activity of Amazing Thailand 1998-1999.

The Jewel Fest Club is a group of traders who sell gems and jewelry at reasonable prices to both Thais and foreigners. The objectives of the Jewel Fest Club are to promote the sale of gems and jewelry of international standards, and to create a positive image of Thailand's gem and jewelry industry. In the past, some visitors to Thailand were induced to purchase products of low quality with exaggerated prices. Such deceptive behaviour has ruined the reputation of Thailand and affected the entire Thai economy.

The Jewel Fest Club is a measure decided to handle the deception problem on gem purchases and to promote Thailand as a trade center of quality goods at inexpensive prices on the occasion of Amazing Thailand 1998-1999 . The traders who join the Club will be presented with a golden ring-shaped symbol with a red ruby on its top, with the Jewel Fest Clubinitials of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association-- TGJTA-- staning inside the circle, with the wording 'Jewel Fest Club' underneath. To display this symbol at their outlets will help ensure visitors' decisions to purchase jewelry on sale since each product sold will have a satisfaction guarantee for its quality. The Club's members are pleased to accept returned products on the conditions that appear in a certificate issued for every purchase.

The Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) in its capacity as the administrator of the Jewel Fest Club is in charge of overseeing the Club's members to follow the Club's regulation in a strict manner ; examining and controlling the quality of products; and raising customers' confidence that the purchased products are refundable in the case that there is a complaint of unfair purchase with the Club's members.

Thailand Advice to Visitors.

Getting Along In Thailand.

Thailand is known for its tolerance and hospitality, and the average tourist will have no difficulty in adjusting to the local customs All the same, as when coming into any unfamiliar society, a visitor may find it helpful to be aware of certain do's and don't's, and thus avoid making accidental misunderstanding. Basically, most of these are simply a matter of common sense and good manners not really all that different from the way one would behave in one's own country but a few are special enough to be pointed out.

The Monarchy.

The Thai people have a deep traditional reverence for their Royal Family, and a visitor should also be careful to show respect for the King, the Queen, and the Royal Children. In a cinema, for example, a portrait of the King is shown during the playing of the royal anthem, and the audience is expected to stand. When attending some public event at which a member of the Royal Family is present, the best guide as to know how to behave is probably to watch the crowd and do what it does.

Religion.

Row of Seated Buddhas at Wat Suthat Statues Wat Suthat, Bangkok, ThailandThai law has a number of special sections concerning religious offences, and these cover not only Buddhism, the religion of the majority of the people, but also any other faiths represented in the kingdom. It is, for instance, unlawful to commit any act, by any means whatsoever, to an object or a place of religious worship of any community in a manner likely to insult the religion. Similarly, "whoever causes any disturbance at an assembly lawfully engaged in the performance of religious worship of religious ceremonies" is subject to punishment, as well as "whoever dresses or uses a symbol showing that he is a monk or novice, holyman or clegyman of any religion unlawfully in order to make another person believe he is such person."

In less legal language, here are a few tips on what to do and what not to do on a visit to a religious place:

# Dress neatly. Do not go topless, or in shorts, or other unsuitable attire. If you look at the Thais around you, you will see the way they would prefer you to be dressed which, in fact, is probably not very different from the way you would dress in a similar place in your own country.

# It is all right to wear shoes while walking around the compound of a Buddhist temple, but not inside the chapel where the principal Buddha image is kept. Do not worry about dirt when you have to take them off, the floors of such places are usually clean.

# In a Muslim mosque, men should wear hats and women should be well-covered with slacks or a long skirt, a longsleeved blouse buttoned to the neck, and a scarf over the hair. All should remove their shoes before entering the mosque and should not be present if there is a religious gathering.

# Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or to be touched by a woman or to accept anything from the hand of one. If a woman has to give anything to a monk or novice, she first hands it to a man, who then presents it. Or in the case of a woman who wants to present it with her hand, the monk or novice will spread out a piece of saffron robe or handerchief in front of him, and the woman will lay down the material on the robe which is being held at one end by the monk or novice.

# All Buddha images, large or small, ruined or not, are regarded as sacred objects. Therefore, do not climb up on one to take a photograph, or generally speaking, do anything that might show a lack of respect.

Social Customs.

The don'ts of Thai social behaviour are less clearly defined than these concerning the monarchy or religion, especially in a city like Bangkok where western customs are better known and more widely accepted. However, what is acceptable in Bangkok may not be in the countryside where the old ways are still prevalent. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

# Thais do not normally shake hands when they greet one another, but instead press the palms together in a prayer like gesture called a wai. Generally, a younger person wais an elder, who returns it. Watch how the Thais do it, and you will soon learn.

# It is considered rude to point your foot at a person, so try to avoid doing so when sitting opposite anyone, and following the conception that the foot is a low limb; do not point your foot to show anything to anyone but use your finger instead.

# Thais regard the head as the highest part of the body both literally and figuratively. As a result, they do not approve of touching anyone on that part of the body, even in a friendly gesture. Similarly, if you watch Thais at a social gathering, you will notice that young people go to considerable lengths to keep their heads lower than those of the elder ones, to avoid giving the impression of "looking down" on them. This is not always possible, of course, but it is the effort that counts.

# Public displays of affection between men and women are frowned upon. You may see some very westernised young Thai couples holding hands, but that is the extent of the displaying of affection in this polite society.

# Losing your temper, especially in public, will more than likely get you nowhere. The Thais think that such displays denote poor manners, and you are more able to get what you want by keeping calm and concealing your emotions.

# Do not be surprised if you are addressed by your first name: for instance, Mr. Bob or Miss Maryinstead of by your surname. This is because Thais refer to one another in this manner, usually with the title "Khun" (Mr., Mrs. or miss) in front. Follow the customs of the country as far as possible, and you will make more friends during your stay.

Special Advice.

1. Beware of unauthorized people who offer their services as guides. Contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)'s counters for all tourist information. The TAT's counters are located in the Arrival Hall of the Bangkok International Airport; at Terminal 1 Tel: 523-8972-3, or at Terminal 2 Tel: 535-2669 from 08.00 to 24.00 hrs.; at the main office on Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue Tel: 281 -0422 during working hours of 08.30 to 16.30 hrs.

2. Visitors are advised to use the hotel taxi service at their hotel if they do not know their way around or cannot speak the local language.

3. Observe all normal precautions as regards to personal safety, as well as the safety of your belongings. Walking alone on quiet streets or deserted areas is not recommended. Be sure that all your valuables -money, jewellery, and airline tickets- are properly protected from loss.

4. Use the service of only registered travel agents.

5. Visitors needing assistance relating to safety, unethical practices, or other matters, please call the Tourist Assistance Centre immediately (Tel: 281 -5051, 282-8129) or contact the Tourist Police (Tel: 678-6800- 9 or 1699)

6. Penalties for drug offences are very severe in Thailand, do not get yourself involved with drugs.

7. Please drop your garbage into a waste container. The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration is now strictly enforcing the law in an effort to keep the city clean and healthy. The fine (maximum 2,000 baht) will be imposed on a person who spits, discards cigarette stubs, or drops rubbish in public areas.

Thailand History.

History

Thailand means "land of the free", and throughout its 800-year history, Thailand can boast the distinction of being the only country in Southeast Asia never to have been colonized. Its history is divided into five major periods

Nanchao Period (650-1250 A.D.)
The Thai people founded their kingdom in the southern part of China, which is Yunnan, Kwangsi and Canton today. A great number of people migrated south as far as the Chao Phraya Basin and settled down over the Central Plain under the sovereignty of the Khmer Empire, whose culture they probably accepted. The Thai people founded their independent state of Sukhothai around 1238 A.D., which marks the beginning of the Sukhothai Period

Sukhothai Period (1238-1378 A.D.)
Thais began to emerge as a dominant force in the region in the13th century, gradually asserting independence from existing Khmer and Mon kingdoms. Called by its rulers "the dawn of happiness", this is often considered the golden era of Thai history, an ideal Thai state in a land of plenty governed by paternal and benevolent kings, the most famous of whom was King Ramkamhaeng the Great. However in 1350, the mightier state of Ayutthaya exerted its influence over Sukhothai.

Ayutthaya Period (1350-1767)
The Ayutthaya kings adopted Khmer cultural influences from the very beginning. No longer the paternal and accessible rulers that the kings of Sukhothai had been, Ayutthaya's sovereigns were absolute monarchs and assumed the title devaraja (god-king). The early part of this period saw Ayutthaya extend its sovereignty over neighboring Thai principalities and come into conflict with its neighbours, During the 17th century, Siam started diplomatic and commercial relations with western countries.
In 1767, a Burmese invasion succeeded in capturing Ayutthaya. Despite their overwhelming victory, the Burmese did not retain control of Siam for long. A young general named Phya Taksin and his followers broke through the Burmese encirclement and escaped to Chantaburi. Seven months after the fall of Ayutthaya, he and his forces sailed back to the capital and expelled the Burmese occupation garrison.

Thon Buri Period (1767-1772)
General Taksin, as he is popularly known, decided to transfer the capital from Ayutthaya to a site nearer to the sea which would facilitate foreign trade, ensure the procurement of arms, and make defence and withdrawal easier in case of a renewed Burmese attack. He established his new capital at Thon Buri on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. The rule of Taksin was not an easy one. The lack of central authority since the fall of Ayutthaya led to the rapid disintegration of the kingdom, and Taksin's reign was spent reuniting the provinces.

Rattanakosin Period (1782 - the Present)
After Taksin's death, General Chakri became the first king of the Chakri Dynasty, Rama I, ruling from 1782 to 1809. His first action as king was to transfer the royal capital across the river from Thon Buri to Bangkok and build the Grand Palace. Rama II (1809-1824) continued the restoration begun by his predecessor. King Nang Klao, Rama III (1824-1851) reopened relations with Western nations and developed trade with China. King Mongkut, Rama IV, (1851-1868) of "The King and I" concluded treaties with European countries, avoided colonialisation and established modern Thailand. He made many social and economic reforms during his reign.

King Chulalongkorn, Rama V (1869-1910) continued his father's tradition of reform, abolishing slavery and improving the public welfare and administrative system. Compulsory education and other educational reforms were introduced by King Vajiravudh, Rama VI (1910-1925). During the reign of King Prajadhipok, (1925-1935), Thailand changed from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy. The king abdicated in 1933 and was succeeded by his nephew, King Ananda Mahidol (1935-1946). The country's name was changed from Siam to Thailand with the advent of a democratic government in 1939. Our present monarch, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, is King Rama IX of the Chakri Dynasty.

Monarchy

His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej is the ninth king of the Chakri Dynasty. Born in December 1927, in Cambridge, Massachusetts USA, where his father, Prince Mahidol of Songkhla was studying medicine at Harvard University, H.M. King Bhumibol ascended the throne in 1946 and is already the longest reigning Thai monarch. As a constitutional monarch, he maintains neutrality in times of crisis.

Thai people have a deep and traditional reverence for the Royal Family. To a very large degree, H.M. King Bhumibol's popularity mirrors his deep interest in his people's welfare. He concerns himself intimately with every aspect of Thai life. He and his wife, H.M. Queen Sirikit devote much of their time to inspect and improve the welfare of the people.

His Majesty the King's initials the Thai letters Phor Por Ror placed at the centre of the crest, under the Royal Crown and above the Royal Throne of the Eight Compass Points, signify that His Majesty is the focus of the entire nation, binding the people's hearts and loyalty. The yellow colour of the letters is the colour of His Majesty's day of birth, and the blue colour of the background that of the monarchy. The surrounding discus (Chakra) with the Thai numeral 9 means that King Bhumibol Adulyadej is the ninth monarch of the Chakri Dynasty. The crest is flanked by two seven-tiered umbrellas and topped by a nine-tiered umbrella, both types symbols of kingship. The four-point border represents the four regions of the country, in which the people live in peace and tranquillity under the King's supreme protection, as expressed by the green colour, which is a symbol of peace and abundance. Each of the four points of the border has a lotus flower, an offering to His Majesty on the occasion of his sixth-cycle birthday anniversary. The golden rays around the crest signify His Majesty's grace and benevolence, which pervade the Kingdom and beyond, and bring pride and joy to the people throughout the entire land. Beneath the crest, a blue silk banner bears the inscriptionof the Celebration on the Auspicious Occasion of His Majesty's 6th-Cycle Birthday Anniversary on 5 December 1999.

Religion

Thailand is one of the most strongly Buddhist countries in the world. The national religion is Theravada Buddhism, a branch of Hinayana Buddhism, practiced by more than 90 % of all Thais.

The remainder of the population adheres to lslam, Christianity, Hinduism and other faiths - all of which are allowed full freedom of expression. Buddhism continues to cast strong influence on daily life. Senior monks are highly revered. Thus, in towns and villages, the temple (wat) is the heart of social and religious life.

Meditation, one of the most popular aspects of Buddhism, is practiced regularly by numerous Thai as a means of promoting inner peace and happiness. Visitors, too, can learn the fundamentals of this practice at several centres in Bangkok and elsewhere in the country.

Meditation Centres

Some temples and meditation centres in and near Bangkok :
Association for the Science of Creative Intelligence,
Ratchapark Building 18/F,
163 Sukhumvit Soi 21,
Bangkok 10110.
Tel : (02) 258-3242, (02) 258-3257

House of Dhamma,
26/9 Soi Chompol, Lardprao Soi 15, Bangkok 10900
Tel : (02) 511-0439
Fax : (02) 512-6083

Thailand Meditation Center,
The World Fellowship of Buddhist,
616 Soi Methi Nivet (Sukhumvit 24)
Bangkok 10110
Tel : (02) 661-1284, to 1290

Young Buddhist Association of Thailand, (For age 13-25 yrs.)
58/8 Phetkasem 54 (Soi Thipniyom 2),
Bangduan, Pha Si Charoen, Bangkok
Tel : (02) 413-3131, (02) 413-1706,
(02)413-1958, (02) 805-0790 to 0794
Fax : (02) 413-3131

Buddhist Association of Thailand,
41 Phra Athit Road Bangkok
Tel : (02) 281-9563 to 9564
Fax : (02) 281-9563

The International Buddhist Meditation Center (IBMC)
Wat Mahathat, Tha Phrachan
Bangkok 10200
Tel : (02) 222-2835, (02) 623-6325

Thailand Culture & Tradition in 4 Regions.

Thailand is a country of scenic diversity and ancient traditions, of tranquil temples and modern urban excitement. With and independent history going back more than seven centuries, it has managed to absorb a variety of cultural influences and blend them into something uniquely and memorably Thai.

Each of its four major region offers a distinctive experience for the traveler in search of discovery. Misty mountains in the north shelter verdant valleys and exotic hill tribes, while in centers like Chiang Mai traditional customs and crafts have been preserved over generations. Along the picturesque coastlines of the east and south lie some of the world's most beautiful beaches and off-shore islands, each with its own beauty. Scattered over the northeastern plateau are superb khamer monuments from the time of Angkor Wat and natural parks teeming with wild life. In the Central Region can be found the evocative ruins of ancient Thai capitals and bustling Bangkok with its dynamic and countless pleasures.

Central Regions.

The fertile Central Plains region, watered by the winding Chao Phraya River, has long been Thailand's cultural and economic heart. "Kin khao", the Thai expression for "to eat", translates literally as "to eat rice" ; and the vast checkerboard of paddy fields on either side of the river has traditionally provided the kingdom with its staple grain. When the annual monsoon rains sweep across the plains, the fields are transformed into a sea of vivid green dotted here and there with farming villages and the occasional gleaming spire of a Buddhist temple.

In the early 13th century, the first independent Thai capital was born at Sukhothai, thus ushering in a Golden Age of Buddhist art and architecture, The impressive remains of Sukhothai have been preserved as part of a historical park, a major attraction for visitors to the region.

Seated Buddha at Wat Phra Chao Phanan Choeng, AyutthayaWhen Sukhothai's power waned, a new capital rose further south on the banks of the Chao Phraya. Known as Ayutthaya, it ruled the kingdom for more than four centuries and became one of the largest, most cosmopolitan cities in Southeast Asia. Traders came not only from China, Japan and other Asian countries but also from distant Europe, bringing with them a wide range of new cultural influences. Ayutthaya was destroyed by an invading enemy in 1767 and today its extensive remains also attract numerous sightseers, many of whom come up from Bangkok by the traditional river route.

Bangkok became the capital in 1782 with the founding of the Chakri Dynasty that still occupies the Thai throne. Its early rulers sought to recreate the glories of Ayutthaya and many of the city's landmarks date from this period, among them the magnificent Grand Palace and its adjacent Wat Phra Keo (Temple of the Emerald Buddha),Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), and Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha). The flavor of the capital's past can be captured by a boat ride along the Chao Phraya River that flows through its traditional heart or an exploration of the picturesque klongs, or canals of Thonburi.

The city quickly outgrew its original walled center and is today a huge metropolis of high-rise buildings, air-conditioned shopping centers, and world-class luxury hotels. Despite its Western facade, however, Bangkok remains distinctively Thai, a fusion of modern and traditional, full of fascinating things to discover. All of Thailand's legendary bargains lustrous silks, bronze ware, antiques, gemstones, and jewelry, to mention only a few are available here, along with countless fine restaurants and other places dedicated to the pursuit of what Thais call sanuk, or pleasure.

Easily accessible to Bangkok are other attractions, among them the world's largest Buddhist monument at Nakhon Pathom, the famous Bridge over the River Kwai built during World War II, and, on the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand, the lively seaside resort of Pattaya.

Floating Market in BangkokMuch of what we now know as Thai cuisine also evolved in the Central Region. Rice, fish, and vegetables, flavored with garlic, black pepper, and nam pla, or fish sauce, along with an abundance of fresh fruits, comprised the basic diet of Sukhothai. With the rise of Ayutthaya, other elements were added to the increasingly complex Thai blend. That now essential ingredient, the fiery-hot chili pepper, was introduced at this time, along with the equally popular coriander, lime, and tomato. These may have been brought from their native South America by the Portuguese, who opened relations with Ayutthaya in 1511 and also left a lasting imprint in the form of popular Thai sweets based on egg yolks and sugar. Other influences came from India, Japan, Persia, and especially, China, though in almost every case their contributions were subtly altered and transformed to suite Thai tastes.

Unlike the north and northeast, where glutinous rice is popular, Central Thais like the fragrant plain variety, most commonly steamed but sometimes fried or boiled. In addition to fresh-water fish, there is seafood from the nearby gulf as well as a wide range of fresh vegetables and such fruits as mangos, durians, custard apples, guavas, and pomeloes. Sino-Thai food is popular in cities like Bangkok, particularly in the form of numerous noodle dishes.

Northern Regions.

Until the early years of the present century, northern Thailand was effectively isolated from the rest of the country, a region of wild, densely forested mountains where elephants worked in the teak industry along the Burmese and Laotian borders and old temple-filled town like Chiang Mai, founded in 1297, that were part of the ancient Lanna Thai Kingdom. The first railway linking Chiang Mai with Bangkok only opened in 1921, and good roads did not come until several decades later.

This long isolation helps explain many of the characteristics that make the north so appealing to visitors today : a sense of traditions not merely preserved but vitally alive, gentle customs that reveal themselves in countless ways, distinctive differences of scenery, architecture, language and food.

Decorated Pastel Parasols Chiang Mai, ThailandTourists can explore the charms of Chiang Mai, where life moves at a different pace from Bangkok, ornate temples rise on almost every street, and the shops are filled with handicrafts native to the region and still made by traditional methods handed down over generations. There are woodcarvers who produce and endless variety of decorative figures, panels, and furniture, as well as other artisans who create fine lacquer bowls, silverware, homespun cotton and silk, delicate embroidery, and hand-painted umbrellas. All these crafts, along with many others, can be found at the famous Night Bazaar in the center of town.

Chiang Mai is also noted for its frequent festivals such as the Winter Fair at the end of December, the Flower Festival in February, Songkran (the old Thai New Year) in April, and Loy Krathong in November. Most regular activities cease during these gala events, which attract people from all over Thailand as well as from abroad.

Other notable northern towns include Lamphun, once known as Haripunchai and founded by Mons in the 7th century; Lampang, where picturesque horse-drawn carriages still ply the streets; Mae Hong Sorn, nestled in a secret valley of exceptional beauty; Chiang Rai, a popular base for treks into the hills; and Chiang Saen, at the tip of the so-called "Golden Triangle" where Thailand's borders meet those of Laos and Myanmar.

Lovers of adventure can take an elephant ride through the jungle or watch the great animals being trained at one of several camps, go for a boat ride along the scenic Kok River from Chiang Rai, climb Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in Thailand which is now surrounded by a national park, or go on treks to remote hill tribe villages. There are seven principal tribal groups and they are among the most exotic attractions of the far north, each with its own special culture and spectacular costumes that include a profusion of silver jewelry and magnificent embroidery.

The food of the north is as distinctive as its culture. Instead of the soft rice of the central region, a steamed glutinous variety is preferred, traditionally kneaded into small balls with the fingers and used to scoop up more liquid dishes. Northern curries are generally milder than those of central and northeastern Thailand. The influence of neighboring Myanmar is evident in such popular dishes as gaeng hang lay,a pork curry that relies on ginger, tamarind, and turmeric for its flavor, and khao soil, a curry broth with egg noodles and meat, topped with spring onions, pickled onions, and slices of lime. A favorite regional specialty is a spicy pork sausage called naem, eaten in a variety of ways and probably the delicacy northerners miss most when the move to another part of the country.

The traditional form of meal in the north, especially when guests are being entertained, is called a khantoke dinner khan meaning bowl and toke a low round table. Diners sit on the floor around the table and help themselves to assorted dishes which, besides glutinous rice, may include one or two local curries, a minced-meat dish seasoned with chillies, a salad, fried pork rind, and various sauces and condiments. If it is in season, dessert is likely to be lamyai, or longan, a delicious Iycheelike fruit for which the north is famous.

Northeast Regions.

Of all the region of Thailand, the northeast is perhaps the least known among foreign visitors, in spite of the fact that it covers almost a third of the country's total area and includes the second largest Thai city, Khon Kaen. This neglect is changing, however, more and more tourists are beginning to discover the northeast's many unique attractions, both natural and historical.

Ban Chiang PotteryIn the 1960s, near the small village of Ban Chiang in Udon Thani province, one of the most exciting chapters in modern archeology began with the accidental discovery of a prehistoric burial site. Subsequent exploration revealed a culture going back to nearly 4,000 B.C. and numbering among its achievements the use of sophisticated bronze metallurgy as well as rice cultivation and beautiful painted pottery. Some of the remarkable Ban Chiang finds are displayed in a museum near the site, and one of the excavations has been preserved to show its different levels.

In historical times, between the 9th and 14th centuries A.D., the northeast was part of the great Khmer empire ruled from Angkor, and as a result it contains some of the finest classical Khmer ruins to be seen outside of Cambodia itself. Among the most beautiful are Prasat Hin Phimai, near the provincial capital of Nakhon Ratchasima, which was once linked by a direct road to Angkor, and Phanom Ruang in Buriram province, recently restored by the Fine Arts Department. In all, there are more than 30 Khmer ruins scattered about the region, all of unusual architectural interest.

Besides such archaeological sites, the northeast also has a number of spacious national parks and wildlife preserves sure to be on interest to any nature lover. The best known, because of its easy accessibility to Bangkok, is Khao Yai, which covers more than 2,000 square kilometers of forest, grassland, and rolling hills in four provinces and provides shelter for some 200 species of I wildlife, including elephants, tigers, deer, and a wide selection of birds. Phu Kadung, in Loei province, is centered on a mountain topped by a 60_square-kilometer plateau of exceptional natural beauty, while the Phu Khieo Wildlife Preservation Zone in Chaiyaphum province is a royally-initiated sanctuary for a variety of endangered I species. The great Mekong River that forms the border between Thailand and Laos is another notable scenic attraction.

Elephant Roundup

One of the northeast's greatest assets is its hospitable people, who make visitors feel welcome at several memorable festivals during the year. The Elephant Roundup, held every November in Surin province, brings together nearly two hundred of the animals to take part in a display of their skills, with special trains bringing guests from Bangkok for the events. Rocket Festivals, or Boon Bang Fais, are held in a number of provinces, the most famous being in Yasothon in May; enormous home-made rockets are fired at the peak of the lively celebration in the hope of ensuring a plentiful supply of rain for the coming crop. The beautiful Candle Festival, which marks the start of Buddhist Lent in July, attracts people from all over the country to Ubon Ratchathani, where huge, imaginative candles are paraded through the streets of the provincial capital.

Northeastern food reflects the influence of neighboring Laos in a number of dishes. As in Laos (and also northern Thailand) glutinous rice is the staple, eaten both as a base for other dishes or as a sweet when steamed in a piece of bamboo with coconut milk and black beans; and such Laotian herbs as dill (called pak chee Lao, or Lao coriander in Thai) turn up as seasoning. A popular regional dish of Lao origin is khanom buang, a thin crispy egg crepe stuffed with shrimp, bean sprouts, and other ingredients.

Northeasterners like their food highly seasoned, and regional specialties like laab, made with spicy minced meat or chicken, som tam (green papaya salad), and gal yang. (bar B-Q Chicken) Meat is often scarce in villages and freshwater fish and shrimp are the principal source of protein, sometimes cooked with herbs and spices and sometimes fermented. Thanks to the large numbers of north-eastern who have come to work in Bangkok, food of the region is widely available in the capital.

Southern Regions.

Southern Thailand consists of a long peninsula, reaching all the way down to Malaysia. Rugged limestone mountains, covered with lush jungle, rise along its spine, while its two coastlines-- 1,875 kilometers long on the Gulf of Thailand and 740 kilometers on the Indian Ocean shelter countless beaches of exceptional pristine beauty along with prosperous fishing ports. Besides its rare natural beauty, the south also has vast plantations of rubber, coconut, and pineapple and near the Malaysian border, a distinctive cultural difference thanks to a largely Muslim population.

Hua Hin, on the western coast of the gulf, became Thailand's first popular seaside resort in the 1920s when the southern railway line made it easily accessible to Bangkok. King Rama VII built a summer palace there, called Klai Kangwon, "Far From Worries", and other aristocratic families acquired property along the scenic beach. Now the resort can boast a number of modern hotels and has spread to include nearby Cha-am, but it still has a quieter, more restful ambiance than vibrant Pattaya across the gulf.

Modern travelers further south, where they have discovered other exciting destinations. The most celebrated is Phuket, a large island in the Andaman Sea, was widely known among ancient traders for such natural wealth as tin ore and edible birds nests harvested from limestone caves and cliff sides. Phuket today, just an hour's flight from Bangkok, is famous for a string of picture - postcard beaches on its western coast, each with its own particular charms and a wide range of accommodations

Phuket BeachNot far from Phuket is Phang Nga Bay, a marine national park, where hundreds of limestone islands rise dramatically from the sea to form a breath taking scenic spectacle, along with the equally beautiful Phi Phi islands, where turquoise waters lap the white sands of a dozen secret coves and daring sea gypsies scale the walls of a vast, cathedral-like cave to collect the birds' nests so prized by Chinese gourmets throughout the world.

More adventurous travelers in search of unspoiled natural beauty and diving thrills can explore the Similan Islands in the Andaman Sea, a group of nine small islands off which lie countless dazzling coral reefs, or, southward near Malaysia, the huge Tarutao National Park, where 51 islands cover an area of nearly 1,500 square kilometers.

Across the peninsula, off the southeast coast, lies the island of Koh Samui, a more recent tourist discovery that also offers memorable beaches fringed by graceful coconut palms and a number of smaller off-shore islands.

Several southern cities such as Nakhon Si Thammarat, Chaiya, and Songkhla can look back on an ancient history, reflected in deep-seated traditions, the remains of splendid temples, and elegant old houses. Others like Hat Yai, Thailand's third largest provincial capital, have a booming modern energy fueled by the region's prosperity, attracting large numbers of Malaysian tourists with shops and entertainment facilities. In the southernmost provinces of Narathiwat, Pattani, Yala, and Satun, the domed mosque is as much a part of the landscape as the spires of a Buddhist temple, and Malay is the second language of most people.

Southern food is as distinctive as its scenery. Not surprisingly, the coconut, which grows so widely throughout the region, plays a prominent role in many dishes; its milk tempers the heat of chill-laced soups and curries, its oil is often used for flying, and its grated meat serves as a condiment. Also only to be expected is the abundance of fresh seafood from the surrounding waters: marine fish, some of huge size, prawns, rock lobsters, crab, squid, scallops, clams, and mussels. Cashew nuts from local plantations are eaten as appetizers or stir-fried with chicken and dried chillies, while a pungent flat bean called sataw adds an exotic, somewhat bitter flavor much admired by southern diners. Regional fruits include finger-sized bananas, mango-steens, durians, and small, sweet pineapples.

Sino-Thai food is popular in most large cities; every year the large Chinese community of Phuket stages a ten-day Vegetarian Festival during October, with colorful parades as well as exotic culinary treats. Other foreign influences can be found in such dishes as gaeng massaman, a mild Indian-style curry seasoned with cardamon, cloves, and cinnamon, several Malayan fish curries, and Satan skewered meat with a spicy peanut sauce that originally came from Indonesia.

Transport in Bangkok.

Taxis: Hotel taxis have fixed tariffs. Taxis cruising the streets of Bangkok have meters and start up from 35 baht for first 2 Kms. Express ways charges and airport exit fees not including.

If outside downtown of Bangkok, passenger has to inform to taxi driver to get acceptance and additional charges might be happened which depended on distance.

tuk-tuk"Tuk-Tuks" or three-wheel taxis are quite popular among tourists for short journeys inside Bangkok. Fares range from 30 Baht to 150 Baht for this means of transportation.

Car Hire: The Bangkok Yellow Pages lists local and international automobile rental companies Self-drive and chauffeur-driven automobiles are widely available. Car hire companies also operate in Pattaya, Hat Yai, Phuket and Chiang Mai. Those possessing valid International Driver Licenses may prefer to hire automobiles.

Buses: Bus transport in Bangkok is cheap and reasonably comfortable. There are non-airconditioned red and green buses (any destination 3.5 Baht), airconditioned blue buses (fare depending on distance) and air-conditioned televised microbuses with free newspapers (20 or 30 Baht, very comfortable for longer trips within the city). Red and green buses operate 24 hours a day (night fare 5 Baht).

Motorcycles: The fastest vehicle to whisk you out of a traffic jam, it require a somewhat adventurous disposition. Fares range from 15 to 100 Baht. Basically they do not go for long distances. Wearing helmet is obligatory and usually the driver will provide you with one.

Sky Train in BangkokThe Skytrain is Launched: As promised the BTS Skytrain service was launched on 5th December 1999, to celebrate the 72nd birthday of the King of Thailand. The first day was marred by the failure of the automatic resulting in long queues and waiting time of up to one hour.

But this was not to deter Bangkokians, as it seemed despite the delay and the cost everyone wanted to try the service. The section from Sukhumvit Rd to Morchit was particularly popular with families combining a ride on the skytrain with a visit to the Weekend Market.

As an example, it takes just 19 smooth and comfortable minutes to travel between Emporium shopping mall to Morchit at a cost of Baht 40.

For the frequent user a Stored Value card worth Baht 300 has been introduced. As a special promotion the normal Baht 30 deposit has been waived reducing the cost to Baht 270.

For more details about BTS Skytrain visit www.bts.co.th

Between the airport and town

By Bus : Airport buses busying between the Don Muang Airport and the major downtown destinations are worth their 70 Baht fare, and avoiding a likely trip around Bangkok by taxi (with the fare clocking up all the way on the taximetre), it's a bargain. There are 3 routes of the Airport Bus:

A-1 goes to the Silom Road business district via Pratunam and Rajdamri Road, stoppping at big hotels like Indra Regent, Grand Hyatt Erawan, Regent Bangkok and Dusit Thani.

A-2 goes to Sanam Luang via Phayathai Road, Lan Luang Road, Rajdamnoen Klang Road and Tanao Road; comes in hady for those travelling to the Siam Square ir Banglamphu areas.

A-3 goes to the Phrakanong district via Sukhumwit Road.

You can also catch local air-conditioned buses on the main road that passes the airport. Bus 4 goes to the Rama Garden Hotel, Indra Regent, Erawan, Hyatt, and Dusit Thani hotels, and down Silom Road (last bus at 8 PM). Bus 10 goes to the Rama Garden Hotel, the Northern Bus Terminal, the Victory Monument, and the Southern Bus Terminal (last bus at 8:30 PM). Bus 13 goes to the Northern Bus Terminal, Victory Monument, and down Sukhumvit Road to the Eastern Bus Terminal (last bus at 8 PM). Bus 29 goes to the Northern Bus Terminal, Victory Monument, Siam Square, and Bangkok's main railway station, Hualamphong (last bus at 8:30 PM). Cost: B15.

By Helicopter

By Helicopter: The quickest way downtown is the helicopter that lands at the Shangri-La Hotel (. Anyone who will pay the $200 fare is welcome aboard.

By Minibus: Thai Airways has a minibus service between the airport and major hotels. They depart when they are full. Cost: B100. Complimentary orchid nosegay included.

By Riverboat Shuttle: A bus-and-boat service leaves every 30 minutes, 6 AM-9 PM. This service is really for the benefit of guests at the Oriental, Royal Orchid Sheraton, and Shangri-La hotels, but others can use it if there's space. The bus takes you from the airport to the river, where you transfer to a boat for the half-hour run to the hotels. Fare is $28 (B700); overall time is under an hour.

By Taxi: Don Muang is 25 km (15 mi) from the city center. The road is often congested with traffic. Be prepared for a 90-minute journey by taxi, though there are times when it can take less than 40 minutes. obtain a reservation and prepay the fare at the counter (at either terminal), and a driver will lead you to the taxi. The fare to downtown Bangkok depends on the exact location and, to some extent, the time of day. Count on B300-B350 from the international terminal and B250 from the domestic. Taxis to the airport from downtown Bangkok are approximately B130. Use a metered taxi and agree to pay for the toll road, an extra B50.

Otherwise, upon arrival you may want to procede upstairs, to the Departure Hall and catch a taxi that has just dropped the passengers. Insist on charging by the metre, it's the buyers' market in Bangkok now. It will hardly ever be more than 250 Baht when travelling within the city limits.

By Train: Bangkok Airport Express trains make the 35-minute run every 90 minutes from 8 AM to 7 PM. Check the schedule at the tourist booth in the arrival hall. Fare: B100. You can also take regular trains from 5:30 AM to 9 PM. The fare is B5 for a local train, B13 for an express.

About Thaifood.

Introduction

Thai food is internationally famous. Whether chilli-hot or comparatively bland, harmony is the guiding principle behind each dish. Thai cuisine is essentially a marriage of centuries-old Eastern and Western influences harmoniously combined into something uniquely Thai.The characteristics of Thai food depend on who cooks it, for whom it is cooked, for what occasion, and where it is cooked to suit all palates. Originally, Thai cooking reflected the characteristics of a waterborne lifestyle. Aquatic animals, plants and herbs were major ingredients. Large chunks of meat were eschewed. Subsequent influences introduced the use of sizeable chunks to Thai cooking.

With their Buddhist background, Thais shunned the use of large animals in big chunks. Big cuts of meat were shredded and laced with herbs and spices. Traditional Thai cooking methods were stewing and baking, or grilling. Chinese influences saw the introduction of frying, stir frying and deep-frying. Culinary influences from the 17th century onwards included Portuguese, Dutch, French and Japanese. Chillies were introduced to Thai cooking during the late 1600s by Portuguese missionaries who had acquired a taste for them while serving in South America.

Thais were very adapt at 'Siamese-ising' foreign cooking methods, and substituting ingredients. The ghee used in Indian cooking was replaced by coconut oil, and coconut milk substituted for other daily products. Overpowering pure spices were toned down and enhanced by fresh herbs such as lemon grass and galanga. Eventually, fewer and less spices were used in Thai curries, while the use of fresh herbs increased. It is generally acknowledged that Thai curries burn intensely, but briefly, whereas other curries, with strong spices, burn for longer periods. Instead of serving dishes in courses, a Thai meal is served all at once, permitting dinners to enjoy complementary combinations of different tastes.

A proper Thai meal should consist of a soup, a curry dish with condiments, a dip with accompanying fish and vegetables. A spiced salad may replace the curry dish. The soup can also be spicy, but the curry should be replaced by non spiced items. There must be a harmony of tastes and textures within individual dishes and the entire meal.

Eating and ordering Thai Food

Thai food is eaten with a fork and spoon. Even single dish meals such as fried rice with pork, or steamed rice topped with roasted duck, are served in bite-sized slices or chunks obviating the need for a knife. The spoon is used to convey food to the mouth.

Ideally, eating Thai food is a communal affair involving two or more people, principally because the greater the number of diners the greater the number of dishes ordered. Generally speaking, two diners order three dishes in addition to their own individual plates of steamed rice, three diners four dishes, and so on. Diners choose whatever they require from shared dishes and generally add it to their own rice. Soups are enjoyed concurrently with rice. Soups are enjoyed concurrently with other dishes, not independently. Spicy dishes, not independently. Spicy dishes are "balanced" by bland dishes to avoid discomfort.

The ideal Thai meal is a harmonious blend of the spicy, the subtle, the sweet and sour, and is meant to be equally satisfying to eye, nose and palate. A typical meal might include a clear soup (perhaps bitter melons stuffed with minced pork), a steamed dish (mussels in curry sauce), a fried dish (fish with ginger), a hot salad (beef slices on a bed of lettuce, onions, chillies, mint and lemon juice) and a variety of sauces into which food is dipped. This would be followed by sweet desserts and/or fresh fruits such as mangoes, durian, jackfruit, papaya, grapes or melon.

What Comprises a Thai Meal

Titbits

These can be hors d'oeuvres, accompaniments, side dishes, and/or snacks. They include spring rolls, satay, puffed rice cakes with herbed topping. They represent the playful and creative nature of the Thais

Salads

A harmony of tastes and herbal flavours are essential. Major tastes are sour, sweet and salty. Spiciness comes in different degrees according to meat textures and occasions.

General Fare

A sweet and sour dish, a fluffy omelette, and a stir-fried dish help make a meal more complete.

Dips

Dips entail some complexity. They can be the major dish of a meal with accompaniments of vegetables and some meats. When dips are made thinly, they can be used as salad designs. A particular and simple dip is made from chillies, garlic, dried shrimps, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and shrimp paste.

Soups

A good meal for an average person may consist simply of a soup and rice. Traditional Thai soups are unique because they embody more flavours and textures than can be found in other types of food.

Curries

Most non-Thai curries consist of powdered or ground dried spices, whereas the major ingredients of Thai curry are fresh herbs. A simple Thai curry paste consists of dried chillies, shallots and shrimp paste. More complex curries include garlic, galanga, coriander roots, lemon grass, kaffir lime peel and peppercorns.

Single Dishes

Complete meals in themselves , they include rice and noodle dishes such as Khao Phat and Phat Thai.

Desserts

No good meal is complete without a Thai dessert. Uniformly sweet, they are particularly welcome after a strongly spiced and herbed meal.

Preparing Thai Food

Titbits

A simple kind of titbit is fun to make. You need shallots, ginger, lemon or lime, lemon grass, roasted peanuts and red phrik khi nu chillies. Peeled shallots and ginger should be cut into small fingertip sizes. Diced lime and slices of lemon grass should be cut to the same size. Roasted peanut should be left in halves. Chillies should be thinly sliced. Combinations of such ingredients should be wrapped in fresh lettuce leaves and laced with a sweet-salty sauce made from fish sauce, sugar, dried shrimps and lime juice.

Dips

Mixing crushed fresh chillies with fish sauce and a dash of lime juice makes a general accompanying sauce for any Thai dish. Adding some crushed garlic and a tiny amount of roasted or raw shrimp paste transforms it into an all-purpose dip (nam phrik). Some pulverised dried shrimp and julienned egg-plant with sugar makes this dip more complete. Serve it with steamed rice, an omelette and some vegetables.

Salad Dressings

Salad dressings have similar base ingredients. Add fish sauce, lime juice and sugar to enhance saltiness, sourness and sweetness. Crushed chillies, garlic and shallots add spiciness and herbal fragrance. Lemon grass and galanga can be added for additional flavour. Employ this mix with any boiled, grilled or fried meat. Lettuce leaves, sliced cucumber, cut spring onions and coriander leaves help top off a salad dressing.

Soup Stocks

Soups generally need good stock. Add to boiling water crushed peppercorns, salt, garlic, shallots, coriander roots, and the meats or cuts of one's choice. After prolonged boiling and simmering , you have the basic stock of common Thai soups. Additional galanga, lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, crushed fresh chillies, fish sauce and lime juice create the basic stock for a Tom Yam.

Curries

To make a quick curry, fry curry or chilli paste in heated oil or thick coconut milk. Stir and fry until the paste is well cooked and add meats of one's choice.Season with fish sauce or sugar to taste. Add water or thin coconut milk to make curry go a longer way. Add sliced eggplant with a garnish of basil and kaffir lime leaves. Make your own curry paste by blending fresh (preferably dried) chillies, garlic, shallots, galanga, lemon grass, coriander roots, ground pepper, kaffir lime peels and shrimp paste.

Single Dish Meals

Heat the cooking oil, fry in a mixture of crushed chillies, minced garlic, ground pepper and chopped chicken meat. When nearly cooked, add vegetables such as cut beans or eggplants. Season with fish sauce and garnish with kaffir lime leaves, basil or balsom leaves. Cooked rice or fresh noodles added to the frying would make this a substantial meal.

Thailand Tourist Attractions.

Ayutthaya

The capital of Thailand from 1350 to 1767, this modern town is nothing special, but it has a well-preserved complex of temple and palace ruins bordered by three rivers (these natural moats were important in protecting the city). Although the ruins at Sukhothai are better preserved and more extensive, Ayutthaya is so close to Bangkok that most travelers are likely to see only these - and they will still walk away impressed. Most tours don't allow enough time to see all the ruins and the two museums in town, but will visit enough of them to give you an idea of what the area has to offer. If you're traveling independently, you can take an early train there from Bangkok, tour the sights, then travel by boat 7 mi/11 km downriver to Bang Pa-In (a king's summer palace, built in Chinese traditional architecture). The boat ride takes about an hour and provides great views of rural life along the river. From Bang Pa-In, you can take the train back to Bangkok. The best time to visit is in mid December when a festival to commemorate the city's World Heritage status turns the town into a clamor of re-enactments, fireworks and elephant shows. 55 mi/85 km north of Bangkok.

Bangkok

Bangkok can soothe or ruffle, and it often does both. While contemplating the sunrise at a temple or monks collecting alms, you'll marvel at what peace can be found in the midst of such a chaotic metropolis. But if you're stuck in a typically nasty traffic jam, you'll wonder if any magnificent sight or the warmth of the Thai people could possibly be worth the frustration of trying to get from one place to the next. A cultural hub in Southeast Asia, the city is a collage of urban squalor, gleaming affluence, abject poverty, exotic consumerism and astounding pollution. Most certainly, Bangkok will assault your senses. It's fascinating and indulgent, but it requires time and patience.

Chiang Mai

This Rose of the North is the nation's second-largest city (pop. 300,000) and has most of Bangkok's amenities (including excellent food and accommodations). It's also increasingly making a name for itself in the arts, especially accessories of modern design. But it's refreshingly cooler and doesn't have the quicker pace, the traffic jams and the pollution (although the big-city problems are rapidly catching up). The city is located in the hilly Golden Triangle, the region where much of the world's opium is grown.

Chiang Mai is an ancient city (it was once the capital of an independent kingdom), and the moat around the original town is still intact. There are several old and interesting wats (temples), among them Wat Suan Dawk (with an adjoining handicraft shop), Wat Chiang Man and Wat Phra Singh. The National Museum and the Tribal Research Center at Chiang Mai University also merit a visit.

The city's sights can be seen in a day, but most people use the town as a jumping-off point for exploring the region. Several hill tribes live in the area, and trekkers can visit tribal villages.

If you aren't taking a trek, visit the night market to watch the local hill-tribe members buying and selling. If you're looking for a day trip, go see the elephants being trained at the Elephant Conservation Center near Lampang, 62 mi/100 km to the southeast (buses leave every 20 minutes for the two-hour trip). This village also has interesting blue and white pottery and an old fortress temple, Wat Lampang Luang.

Other day trip possibilities include Lamphun, 16 mi/26 km south of Chiang Mai (to see Wat Chama Devi, which has 60 Buddhas standing in niches on the outside of the structure) and Baw Sang (which has tours of its lacquerware, textile, bronze, umbrella and jade factories). The road to Baw Sang passes handicraft factories and shops selling wood carvings, ceramics and silverware. For another driving excursion, go 12 mi/20 km northwest of Chiang Mai to Wat Phathad (on Doi Suthep Mountain), another 3 mi/5 km to Phuping Palace (the royal family's winter residence), then another 2 mi/3 km to a Meo village. Another popular excursion (with Thais as well as visitors) is to go by car to the Doi Inthanon National Park. The park contains waterfalls, hiking trails, pretty scenery and Thailand's tallest mountain, the park's namesake.

We also enjoyed Mae Sai, the northernmost point in Thailand, a four-hour bus journey from Chiang Mai. There are wonderful markets, including a puppet market, with a good selection of hill-tribe crafts from both Thailand and Myanmar. Mae Sai is also the import point for Myanmar's rubies and sapphires. The gem market, where you can watch the bidding on imported stones, is downtown, across the street from the police station. If time permits, cross the border into Myanmar for a day or two. (Check with your embassy to make sure the border is safe before going.)

If you aren't trekking or taking more than one day trip, we think two nights for Chiang Mai should be about right. 440 mi/710 km north of Bangkok.

Chiang Mai-Area Treks

A popular activity for energetic travelers is to trek the Golden Triangle, a region around Chiang Mai where the borders of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar (Burma) meet. The area is remote and roads are scarce, so the most practical way to see the hill-tribe people, their villages and their opium fields is to walk, or trek. The organized treks usually last four nights, stopping in a different village each night. An elephant ride and river rafting are often included in the price (keep your camera in a waterproof pouch, just in case it tumbles overboard).

There are several risks that must be weighed before you decide to join a trek into the Golden Triangle. Among the horror stories we've heard from trekkers are the following: They were robbed by armed bandits, their guides got lost, their guides turned out to be armed bandits, the tribesmen greeted them with postcards and trinkets for sale, the trekkers got sick from smoking opium, their guides couldn't tell them anything about the area, and they walked for 12 hours a day and were too exhausted to enjoy anything. This is not to say that the vast majority of trekkers don't have a fantastic time - our five-day sojourn into the hill-tribe country was the highlight of our trip to Thailand. But you should choose your trekking group with great care.

Travelers who trek as part of a tour organized by a reputable operator will reduce their risks substantially. If you're traveling independently, your best bet is to talk to people who have recently finished trekking. If they had a good time, find out who took them. If possible, find a guide who speaks the tribal languages (as well as English), who leads tours through areas where no one else treks and who doesn't take the same route all the time. The emphasis should be on visiting the tribes, not on trying to see how far you can walk in a day.

Travelers with even more adventurous tastes and a zeal for independence should head for Mae Hong Son, Soppong, Mae Sot and other towns along the Myanmar border. Local guides can be hired to take you to remote hill-tribe communities that are rarely visited. (Check with your embassy to make sure that stretch of the border is safe before going there.)

Fang

This town is really just a transit point for those taking the boat ride down the Kok River to Chiang Rai (from Fang, it's only a couple of miles to Tha Ton, where the boats leave). This excursion is only for the adventurous, as the passengers frequently end up soaked and the boats are sometimes unreliable (ours broke down twice). Still, the five-hour trip passes some interesting villages and can be an exhilarating ride. After the trip, there's usually an overnight in Chiang Rai, which has an interesting museum devoted to opium. 100 mi/160 km north of Chiang Mai.

Hat Yai

Hat Yai is a bustling commercial area with several beaches frequented mostly by Thais. The town also has a slew of massage parlors, but they're basically the same as the massage parlors in Bangkok. Otherwise, it holds little of interest. In the surrounding area, though, there is pleasant mountain scenery and waterfalls (Ton Nga Chang, about two hours away by car, is the biggest waterfall in southern Thailand). There's also a gigantic reclining Buddha a few miles west of town. Day trips can also be made to Songkhla. 150 mi/240 km southeast of Phuket.

Hua Hin

A popular international beach resort 90 years ago, Hua Hin today is a somewhat quieter place frequented mainly by Thais. It has moved upscale - the town now boasts good restaurants, new hotels and a fine golf course. And even if you don't stay there, do stop by and see the colonial-era Railway Hotel, now called the Hotel Sofitel Central Hua Hin. You might have seen it in the film The Killing Fields, when it played the part of the Hotel Le Phnom. 140 mi/225 km south of Bangkok.

Kanchanaburi

Visitors may not have heard of this city, but it's likely they know about the nearby bridge over the River Kwai. Many Allied prisoners perished during World War II building the infamous Death Railway. The bridge itself is very unassuming - it's still used occasionally by local train traffic. Visit the nearby museum, which chronicles life in the POW camps and the history of the railroad's construction (there is even a simulated Allied bombardment). Also take a walk through the immaculately maintained Allied War Cemetery, where you'll find the graves of more than 8,000 POWs who died working on the bridge and railway for the Japanese Army. It's a very moving experience. Kanchanaburi can be seen as a day trip from Bangkok, but we prefer to overnight in Kanchanaburi, especially if a side trip to the temple at Nakhon Pathom is included.

If you're spending a couple of nights in Kanchanaburi, consider taking a day trip to Erawan National Park. Easily reached by bus, the park sits in the middle of thick jungle and contains a series of small falls descending a hill and flowing into a series of pools. A hiking trail tracks the falls up the hillside. A swim in the cold, clear pools is a delightful antidote to the thick tropical heat. Boat trips up the River Kwai to see caves and teak forests are also possible. Plan two nights in Kanchanaburi, if time permits. 75 mi/120 km northwest of Bangkok.

Khao Yai National Park

This huge park offers great hiking, elephant rides and many waterfalls. At night, there are viewing trips for deer, monkeys and (rarely seen) tigers and bears. People who make the trip to the park from Bangkok keep this place busy on the weekends. 120 mi/200 km northeast of Bangkok.

Koh Chang

Off Thailand's southeastern coast, Koh Chang is the country's second-largest island, after Phuket. The Koh Chang National Marine Park surrounds most of Koh Chang, as well as several nearby islands. (Koh means "island" and is pronounced go.) It is supposedly a national park, but tourism development is changing the coastline, and on the south shore, fish farms are encroaching on the mangroves. Yet it retains two fishing villages that are interesting, although the crowds are thickening. A new airport in Trat (Koh Chang is a 30-minute ferry crossing from there) is likely to spur more arrivals. So far, however, the interior is still choked by a primeval and impenetrable rain forest. 140 mi/225 km southeast of Bangkok.

Koh Lanta

As a late arrival on the tourism market, Koh Lanta is still relatively low-key. It is also beautiful, with dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches, and it feels welcoming - local families run many of the tourist businesses. The east coast has a number of tourist developments and can get crowded in the high season. But the west coast - where long silken beaches are found - is virtually deserted. You will find good diving and snorkeling, and in the center of the island, there is a spooky system of extensive caves (with stalactites and rock formations, and where many bats make their home) . There also are some waterfalls. Koh Lanta is reached by ferry from Krabi and Koh Phi Phi and Phuket. In the low season, services are scaled down and take longer. Koh Lanta is 55 mi/88 km southeast of Phuket.

Koh Pha-Ngan

This island just north of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand is being developed for tourism, though it lags a few years behind Koh Samui or Phuket - it's actually still possible to chance upon a deserted beach there. It's something of a backpacker hangout, and the age of most visitors is under 30. Reef snorkeling is popular, and you can make a day trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park for more snorkeling and relaxation amid beautiful islets. On the northeast end of the island, Bottle Beach offers a quiet place to stay and opportunities to trek to a beautiful waterfall. On the south part of the island, things can get quite a bit more crowded - every month brings a full-moon festival and thousands of visitors. 280 mi/450 km south of Bangkok.

Koh Samui

One of Thailand's early tourist developments, Koh Samui has largely been invaded by visitors flying in for a week of sun and sea. In the two main towns, particularly Chawaeng, clubs and bars and large hotels have sprouted up. Other parts of the island are quieter and more pleasant. When we first wrote about Koh Samui in the mid-1980s, we predicted that the building of an airport on the island would forever change its character - and not for the better. Well, Samui has its airport, and though there have been some significant changes, Samui still has lovely clean beaches, water that's a magical blue-green color and an idyllic atmosphere - it's just that there are now three to four times as many people enjoying it as before.

Those who aren't interested in the newer hotels can still find the "hut-els" along the shores of the various beaches. This traditional spartan lodging ranges from thatched-roof huts with nothing more than a built-in platform bed to slightly bigger thatched huts with showers and Asian-style toilets (two footrests and a hole in the floor). As for the beaches, we still like Chaweng beach (though it's the most crowded), especially for the variety of nearby restaurants. If you're looking for a quieter bit of sand, try Choeng Mon beach or Big Buddha beach. When it gets too hot on the beach, just find a hammock in the shade of a seaside grove of coconut palms and watch the fishing boats float by. Or rent a bicycle or motorcycle (a paved road circles the island). Or follow one of the hiking paths that lead inland to waterfalls. Look for the handsome Buddha attached to a temple at one end of the island. You can also dive the reefs off neighboring islands. An interesting side trip is a daylong cruise to the Ang Thong National Marine Park. The park is a series of beautiful tropical isles with interesting rock formations and coral reefs; the snorkeling there is excellent. To get to Koh Samui, either fly from Bangkok or Phuket or take the bus (about an 11-hour ride) or train (slightly faster) from Bangkok to Surat Thani, then catch a ferry for a two-hour ride to the island. 295 mi/475 km south of Bangkok.

Krabi

Known for its "Graveyard of Shells" (fossil beds near the sea), Krabi also has nice beaches and an interesting botanical garden. The beaches in Krabi are crowded in winter, as are the beautiful nearby Phi Phi Islands (Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh), about 40 mi/60 km off the coast. The Phi Phis are being developed for tourism but, for the moment, remain lovely: White-sand beaches ring the islands, and green cliffs rise from the clear green water. There are no accommodations on Phi Phi Leh and no cars on either island.

Phi Phi Don is a popular hangout for the yachting crowd, but it's still an enjoyable place to be because of the good food and cheap bungalows. Have a water-buffalo steak and dive the reefs - although some have been destroyed, there are some unspoiled areas remaining. Phi Phi Leh has some interesting caves worth exploring. The caves, many of which contain ancient paintings, are home to sea swallows. Krabi is 40 mi/65 km northeast of Phuket.

Lop Buri

Inhabited since the sixth century, Lop Buri has an 11th-century Hindu temple and excellent Khmer architecture from the 12th century. The town itself is pleasant but doesn't really have much to offer. Do stop in the market to see the temple (home to several dozen monkeys). Everything can be seen in a few hours, so if you're traveling by train, try to arrange it so you won't have to stay overnight. 95 mi/155 km north of Bangkok.

Nakhon Pathom

Nakhon Pathom's main attraction is the impressive Phra Prathom Chedi - the tallest and largest Buddhist monument in Thailand. It marks the spot where Buddhism was introduced to Thailand nearly 2,300 years ago. The temple's foundation was laid in AD 500, and though the present structure is much more recent, it retains a charming ancient atmosphere - the roof is a gold-colored spiral reminiscent of a handbell. Inside there's an engrossing collection of ancient Thai art. Allow at least an hour to tour the temple. If you are traveling from Bangkok, stop by the Buddha Monthon - it's one of the loveliest outdoor Buddha statues in Thailand. 40 mi/60 km south of Bangkok.

Nakhon Si Thammarat

An ancient town, Nakhon Si Thammarat (pop. 102,000) dates to the seventh-century Srivijayan period. Visit Wat Mahathat and a small but interesting museum devoted to the Srivijayan period. There are beaches nearby, and it's a nice place to walk around. 375 mi/600 km south of Bangkok.

Nong Khai

Just downriver from Vientiane, the capital of Laos, this Mekong River town is a popular transit point for travelers. It also has emerged as an attractive option in its own right - there is a fantastic sculpture park of Hindu deities and Buddha images (created by a monk in the 16th century), and the town itself has a quaint riverside atmosphere, an idyllic place for a rest. If you're interested in crossing the border (a bridge allows easy access), you can purchase a visa at the bridge, at the Laotian consulate in Bangkok, or at one of the local guesthouses (visas arranged by guesthouses usually cost a bit more). 310 mi/500 km north of Bangkok.

Pattaya

On the Gulf of Thailand, the resort of Pattaya was developed in 1968 and has evolved into a major tourist destination. Pattaya attracts more visitors than anywhere else in Thailand, save Bangkok. Those who haven't been there in the past 20 years will hardly recognize this 5-mi-/8-km-long beach. Though some of the newer properties are stunning, we think construction has gotten out of hand - too many new hotels and apartments line the shore now. Because of sewage runoff, the main beach along the strip is periodically unsuitable for swimming, but outlying beach areas are still OK for swimming and other watersports. What is euphemistically called bachelor nightlife - and more graphically acknowledged as sex tourism - is the main attraction for some visitors. We recommend avoiding the place - there are many other beach areas that are much nicer than Pattaya.

If you do decide to go there, take the glass-bottomed boat to see the coral off the nearby island of Koh Laan. Koh Lin and Ko Pai (both islands are about an hour's boat ride away) also offer good diving. Jomtien Beach, 4 mi/6 km away, is excellent, although it, too, has experienced some growing pains (too many condominiums for our taste). Mini Siam, on Pattaya's outskirts, has more than 100 miniatures of Thailand's major sights, and a nice excursion can be made to the Nong Nooch Orchid Wonderland, a 500-acre/200-hectare private garden full of beautiful orchids and rare palm trees. Cultural shows are also staged there. Transportation to Pattaya is by public bus and train only (hydrofoil service has been suspended). 100 mi/160 km south of Bangkok.

Phang-Nga Bay

Beautiful limestone cliffs and huge rock outcroppings rise out of the water at Phang-Nga Bay (pronounced PANG-ah). This scenic part of the Isthmus of Kra is reached by either boat or bus. Also in the area are Koh Panyi (a village on stilts), caves (Ruesnee Suwan and Suwanakhuka) and Koh Pingkan (an island in the bay - you might recognize it from the movie The Man With the Golden Gun). Be sure to take a boat ride through the area (the boat pier is about 3 mi/5 km from town) - it's reminiscent of China's Li River. Day tours, sometimes called the James Bond Island Tour, are available through several Phuket hotels. The tours are definitely worthwhile, as this is some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Thailand. 25 mi/40 km north of Phuket.

Phetchaburi

The neoclassical King Mongkut Palace is the main draw of Phetchaburi. Pay particular attention to the colonnaded arcades and the splendid view of the valley and town. The region is full of limestone caves with Buddhist shrines, including the fascinating Khao Luang, which has statues lit by sunlight filtering through a hole in the cave's ceiling. 100 mi/160 km south of Bangkok.

Phimai

Phimai has a large and stunning 12th-century Khmer shrine complex. The shrine is an architectural cousin of Cambodia's Angor Wat (in fact, a road once connected the two). Allow one to two hours to investigate it. 195 mi/310 km northeast of Bangkok.

Phitsanulok

Thousands of people go to this ancient capital each year to see the bronze Phra Buddha Shinnarat (14th century), one of the most important Buddha images in the country. The town also has an interesting folk museum. 215 mi/345 km north of Bangkok.

Phuket

Thailand's largest island (360 sq mi/930 sq km - about the size of Singapore) is the jewel of the Andaman Sea. Phuket (pronounced poo-KET) is well-known as the site of Patong Beach, a popular tropical beach resort. It's justifiably popular: Patong is less congested than Pattaya and has a wider variety of other attractions nearby.

But Phuket has, in our opinion, begun to feel the effects of overdevelopment: It's crowded in places, and the dumping of raw sewage into the sea spoils more and more beaches. The overfished waters no longer provide good catches. Things had been going downhill for a while until the government launched a belated cleanup campaign in 2003 (in time for an APEC summit conference). The island also underwent an effort to move upmarket. The result has been the addition of some excellent upscale resorts. People who are seeing Phuket for the first time will probably be impressed with the island's beauty and the opulence of some of the hotels and resorts. Phuket's restaurants are excellent, and there are still plenty of beaches for snorkeling and other watersports. There is also a wide variety of nonbeach activities. Possibilities include tours of coconut and rubber plantations, Buddhist temples, batik factories, a cultured-pearl farm, a crocodile farm, the Marine Biological Research Center (essentially a fish farm), a number of parks and the nearby islands off Rawai Beach (tropical scenery). To get around, consider renting a jeep or motorcycle (the roads are quite good), or flag down one of the songthaews (trucks that serve as buses) that constantly ply the route (you'll squeeze in among locals). If you're visiting November-February, you can watch giant sea turtles going ashore to lay eggs on Mai Khao Beach.

The beach resorts are about 10 mi/16 km from the town of Phuket (pop. 140,000), which has a mixture of colonial and Chinese architecture but is really rather ordinary. Excursions can be made to the Phi Phi Islands, Krabi, Phang Nga Bay and Tham Lod. Plan to stay three nights in Phuket. 415 mi/670 km south of Bangkok.

Si Chiangmai

Directly across the Mekong River from Vientiane, Laos, this town lies in a region of interesting villages. They include Nong Khai and Sangkhom (with good hiking in the area). The ancient Buddhist site of Wat Phra That Bang Phuan lies between Si Chiangmai and Nong Khai. We think this is one of the most pleasant parts of Thailand, but if you go, expect simple accommodations. 320 mi/515 km north of Bangkok.

Songkhla

Thailand's third-largest city, Songkhla (pop. 172,604) lies near Songkhla Lake and a bird sanctuary. The city itself has little to interest visitors, but the bird sanctuary is worth a half-day trip (go there via boat or canoe). There are also a number of interesting villages in the region. 460 mi/740 km south of Bangkok.

Sukhothai

Thailand's first capital has the most interesting and varied ruins in the country. The centerpiece of the town itself is a large monastery. Nearby is a colorful and fascinating market. Wat Mahathat has an abundance of Buddha images. If you're not joining an organized tour, catch a songthaew (a truck that serves as a bus) or hire a cab (be sure to negotiate before getting in) to take you to the ruins. They're fairly spread out (many are hard to find), so a taxi driver or other guide is essential. It'll take a full day to see all of the ruins. Bicycle rentals are available for those who may want to view the ruins at their own pace. There are more ruins nearby at Si Satchanalai, known for its many stupas and temples. 280 mi/450 km north of Bangkok.

Tham Lod

Tham Lod is an interesting grotto near Phuket with stalactites and prehistoric drawings. Be sure to have lunch at the nearby Muslim village on stilts, where the shrimp, lobster and fish are excellent. 30 mi/50 km north of Phuket.

That Panom

This sleepy Mekong River town in northeast Thailand is seldom visited by foreign tourists, but it's worth the effort it takes to get there (as the crow flies, it's not much farther from Bangkok than Udon Thani, but it takes a lot longer to reach). That Panom is a mecca for Thai pilgrims because the 1,000-year-old chedi (monument) at the temple contains a fragment of Buddha's breastbone. The beautiful grounds of the temple, its statues, carvings and the impressive Khmer-style white-and-gold chedi itself are just part of the reward. Those who get there will see one of the few corners of Thailand that is (as yet) unspoiled by tourism. 375 mi/600 km northeast of Bangkok.

Udon Thani

Although Udon Thani is relatively undistinguished, 31 mi/50 km east is the tiny village of Ban Chieng, site of an interesting archaeological dig. Workers there unearthed a village that may date from 3600 BC. At a simple exhibit built around the site, you can view bones and artifacts still half-buried. Archaeologists believe the site contains some of the world's first bronzework. A small museum contains other artifacts from the dig. It can be seen in about half an hour. 350 mi/560 km northeast of Bangkok.